electricalwiring
I am adding 2 lights with 2 separate switches on one circuit. There are also 2 outlets that need to be hot at all times on the same circuit. What would be the best order to wire these and can someone diagram this for me? This is for a workshop where these are in 2 separate rooms beside each other. I have included a diagram showing the placement.
If you can run a new power line to one of the outlets, it may be an easy way to re-use the rest of the existing wiring without having to break walls open too much (less than if you run a new wire from the switch to the ceiling boxes).
The feed would essentially come from the outlets, to the switch, then to the lights/fan, and the existing feed would no longer be used.
You might need to cut an access hole below one of the outlets and then fish a line from underneath, or cut a hole on the wall opposite the outlet, or if you're really lucky, one backs onto an unfinished space. It's very hard to say without actually being there.
Some tips:
Small variation is you could disconnect the outlets from the switch, and keep the circuit you drew for the switches/lights in place exactly as-is. This could be good depending on how you want circuits loaded out (eg, the lights/fan separate from the outlets) and what you have available -- it's very hard to say for certain without being there.
There's nothing wrong, or even unusual, about star topology in wiring.
Set the topology to minimize wire or make things easier.
But if you're preserving the switch leg of the wiring, that could cause some real problems. First, the K&T topology is often confusing and the runs might not reach the attic. Second, the K&T soldered connections could well outlast your new Romex. Third, running ground and neutral to the switch points is likely to be awkward. And fourth a weak point of K&T where the wires enter a metal fixture box remains.
Especially with lighting getting more and more energy efficient, and the non-issue of ground for ceiling lights, replacing K&T lighting simply does not have much benefit for your time and money spent.
If you do somehow feel compelled to rip out the old wiring, at least consider upgrading to hardwire smoke alarms. See elsewhere for discussion of the necessary interconnect wire.
Best Answer
I can't make a diagram, but I will try to describe it the best I can.. I'm assuming a 15A circuit using 14ga wire, but if it's a 20A, use all 12ga wire. All wire has a ground, but I'm not mentioning that. Just tie all the grounds together in each box and connect it to the switch or receptacle as the case may be.
From the power source, run 14/2 to the first light. From the first light, run 14/3 to the first switch and 14/2 to the second switch. Run 14/2 from the first switch to the first outlet. At the first switch, tie the whites and blacks together and run a black pigtail to one screw on the switch. Connect the red wire from the 14/3 to the other screw.
At the first light, tie all the whites (including the fixture) together, and tie the two blacks (NOT the fixture) together. Connect the red wire from the 14/3 to the black wire of the light fixture. Switch 1 will now control the hot leading to that light.
From the second switch, run 14/2 to the second light and the second outlet. Connect the incoming black to the black that goes to the outlet and run a pigtail to one screw on the switch. Connect the black going to the light to the other screw switch. Tie all the whites together at switch 2. Connect the second light fixture, white to white, black to black.
Of course, both outlets are black to brass screw, and white to silver screw.
Use a nice deep box for light 1 since it will have 3 cables going to it since electric code does specify how many wires can be inside of a box based on size. Celing boxes can have more room to work inside of which is why I would use light 1 as the "junction" rather than having the main power go to switch 1 first.