Well, I would not say you're doing anything stupid. You have some very good questions.
First,
- If you did decide to direct bury the wire the minimum depth for direct burial is 24", not 18".
- At least three #6 ( black, red, white) and one #10 insulated ground ( green coating).
- Anything <= 60amps just requires a #10 insulated ground with green coating.
Second, Consider voltage drop:
- Load: 30 Amps @ 240V Single Phase.
- Length of run: 80 feet
- Wire Size: #6 Copper
- Voltage: 240V
- Voltage Drop: .81 %
- Voltage At End of Circuit: 238.05
That is less than 3% which the NEC recommends for a feeder. Very Good !
Note: I would hesitate to install the ground rod if you have a in-ground pool in line of the transformer.
Correction: This being a feeder would require a grounding electrode!
Does the sub-panel seem over loaded? If so, I could keep the water-heater in the main panel and free up space in the panel another way.
Seems reasonable to me. Most of the equipment won't draw anywhere near the overcurrent rating, at least not during normal operation. Motor loads will draw a higher current on start, but you shouldn't have a problem.
I know I need four-strand wire to run to the sub-panel (2 hot, neutral, ground) but copper or aluminum and what gauge?
You can use either copper or aluminum, though I recommend copper for DIYers. Copper is quite a bit more expensive, but it's easier to work with (in my opinion). If you feel confident working with aluminum conductors, you can save some money using it.
I've covered the topic of feeder sizing here, so I won't go into detail. If you're using copper, you'll want to use 3 AWG conductors. If you choose to use aluminum, you'll need 1 AWG conductors.
If you want to run a single cable, instead of individual conductors in conduit. You can buy what's called 3-3-3-5 SER cable (1-1-1-3 for aluminum), which will contain three 3 AWG conductors (hot,hot,neutral) and a 5 AWG grounding conductor.
When I run the wire along the floor joist, does it need to be secured to the joist or can it just hang there and rest on the drop ceiling? Seems like it should be secured to the joist with wire hanger or something.
You'll have to attach the cable to the joists, using 1 - 1 1/4" staples or other approved means. Check the packaging, to make sure they are rated for the size cable you're using.
What are the things about this project that I don't know that I don't know. :) These are the scary things IMO...i.e. the questions I don't know enough to ask.
The cable you'll be working with is thick and heavy, and it's not going to be fun pulling it. You'll probably want a couple helpers, to help you wrangle it.
Make sure all your connections are tightened to the manufacturer's specified torque.
If you choose aluminum conductors, make doubly sure you tighten the connections. And don't forget the anti-oxidant.
Come back a day or two after the panel has been put into service, and tighten any connections that need it.
Don't forget to remove the bonding jumper between the grounded and grounding bus bars.
You'll need clamps big enough for the cable, to secure it to the panels.
should I put a 100 amp breaker in the sub-panel to act as the "main" for the sub-panel? Or is the 100 amp breaker in the main panel sufficient?
You can usually pick up a main breaker panel, for about the same price as a main lug only (MLO) panel. In my opinion, unless the secondary panel is next to; or within sight of, the main panel. You're better served to install a main breaker panel. It simply offers better protection during maintenance, or other work within the panel.
For example. If you turn off the feeder breaker in the main panel, and start working in the secondary panel. Somebody could easily come along, and flip on the feeder breaker. Since you can't keep an eye on the breaker, you can never be sure the panel will be dead. (unless of course you're using a lockout like you should).
If the secondary panel is in a separate building or structure, then you either need a main breaker, a main disconnect, or the ability to disconnect all ungrounded conductors within 6 or less hand moves.
Best Answer
For RV “parks” with 2 sites code allows a 90% demand factor each 50 amp site is required to have 9600va 2x9600= 19200 / 240= 80
80x .9 = 72 amps. I would run #3 copper or #2 aluminum to your pedestals
based on south wires voltage drop wire size calculator using 72 amps 100’ and a 3 or 5% voltage drop they both recommend the same, a single feeder to the 2 pedestals.
For pedestals there are a couple of different ones out there I would recommend a 120/240 with all 3 outlets 50 amp 240, 30 amp 120 and a 20amp GFCI receptacle in a 3r enclosure a surface mounted model with breakers can be found online for ~120.00 From online RV places , or at amazon for 149 one day shipping, these come with breakers and are what you find at RV parks. If you want to get fancy add pedestal to your search these cost more but do not require the 4x4 post.