I have run into the same situation many times. Let me say first, that I don't condone doing work that requires permits without them, as it often leads to crappy quality or safety issues. I always prefer to do quality work, but occasionally budgets make it necessary to do a quicky fix.
In your case, the most important thing is to strip away all old wax and dirt on the existing tiles. Tack down any loose tiles, especially around the edges with ring nails or a power stapler.
There are many de-waxing products and can be found at any box or hardware store. An alternative cleaner is ammonia and water. Cheap and effective, but smelly. You can also use a mix of regular bleach, TSP, and water. (BTW, never mix bleach and ammonia!!!!) Clean the existing tile with one of these products and scrub the surface well with a mesh type pad, like a 3M green scrubbie. Be sure to rinse the area well with clean water and allow to dry.
You may also consider a tile primer. This product is a bit pricey at over $30 a gal, but when applied over most any hard surface gives an excellent base for any self adhesive tile product.
When you get to the bathroom, remove the toilet and cut your tile around the closet flange, then reinstall the toilet. It is only two bolts, one water connection, and a replacement wax ring. It will look 100% better and avoid tiles coming up due to the toilet sweating and wetting the edges of tiles cut around the base. Only takes a few extra minutes, but will make a big difference.
I agree with Steven about Dricore. I have used it and it is terrific for
- creating a moisture barrier
- giving a slightly softer feel underfoot than concrete
- serving as a great subfloor for almost any type of surface
However, I would seal the floor first (which I did) with a wateproofing product like Drylok.
One caution - do not seal the floor under a water pressure tank or filter system that sweats in the summer. Condensation from these systems often drip down and dissipate through raw concrete, but will pool if you seal it.
Keep the dehumidifier going. The moisture is still in the soil surrounding the foundation and will probably still percolate through the walls.
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Floors don't have to be level for click-lock flooring, it just needs to be flat. Manufacturers will give you the maximum floor change per foot. I suggest that if you have small dips that are outside the manufacturers ranges you fill those with a self-leveling compound.