This may not be worth spending a lot of time on. Buy a replacement and swap it in. If the problem goes away, it must have been a defective breaker.
New breakers cost between $3.50 and $40 depending on make, model, and if it is an AFCI or GFI.
Be sure to note carefully if the existing breaker is a GFI (also called GFCI)—ground fault interrupter—or an AFCI—arc fault circuit interrupter. The former is required for outdoor and wet locations, the latter for "residential family rooms, dining rooms, living rooms, parlors, libraries, dens, bedrooms, sunrooms, recreation rooms, closets, hallways, and similar rooms or areas."ref
Replacing a breaker is not a highly skilled operation, but not respecting electricity can be dangerous. If you aren't comfortable working around open wiring, call in a handy friend.
Uh-oh. Your voltage (hot to neutral) should not be 130V anywhere except a few countries where 127V is common.
Start by measuring across the two hot "legs" in your panel. This value should be 220-240V, tending toward the latter, e.g. 238V.
Now measure each leg to neutral, these should be very close to half that, and very close to each other, e.g. 118-120V.
If they are not, but the two values add up to the first number, you have a very dangerous condition called a "lost neutral": the two "hots" are good, so 240V machines are happy. But the "neutral" is floating, and voltage on each leg is going to vary all over the map as the loads change, e.g. 171V and 67V, which will cause your appliances to catch fire. If you have this, shut off the main breaker now and unplug everything 120V or 120/240 until you fix it for good.
In light of your dryer error, a more likely possibility is that you have lost a leg of "hot". In this case, all the 120V circuits on that leg will be out, while the ones on the other leg work fine. 240V-only appliances will not work. 120/240 appliance controls may work, but the heaters won't. This is not an emergency in the same way as a lost neutral.
You may be having this problem with your entire house, it may have only appeared first at the pool. I gather your dryer is not at poolside.
The answer for any kind of "lost" wire is to give the panel a thorough take-apart and inspection. Look for loose screws (prticularly on heavy-wire lugs), corroded or arced contacts on breakers, burnt busbar, etc.
If you have a smart meter, good chance the power company can turn it off remotely using their SCADA system with a phone call.
White to green: In a properly wired house to code, with the main breaker off, resistance between neutral and ground should be as close to zero as your meter can detect. Voltage should be zero obviously. However, if any circuit is on, all bets are off. Voltage may be somewhat more than zero (but not more than 6 volts), which will make it impossible to measure resistance.
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That can not be left in service that way. If it's cable, it's done for, and being set in concrete, the whole run is now unusable. If it's conduit, all the wires need to be pulled out of that conduit for inspection. You cannot mend a wire (not least, the conductor's width may be damaged and cause a hotspot), so the entire run of wire needs to be replaced.
One does not rely on breakers tripping to protect from a known defect. One fixes the defect.
It's hard for me to keep a straight face when warning you about fire, because I can't name too many concrete fires. However, if the PVC plastic conduit caught on fire, it would fill the space with some toxic stink, especially if the PVC pipe was not rated for electrical use. (Lots of people grab cheap plumbing PVC because it's cheaper).