There was a similar question but I have a follow-up question. Remodeling shower. Shower base is in place(rectangle 58'x 32') Reinstalling long edge outer wall with no glass and no door creating a walk-in. New wall will be floor to ceiling and run approx 34" leaving the rest as the walk-in. Will powershoot to slab at the bottom and secure to furr strip on cinder wall on the one vertical side. Question; since there are no cross joists in the ceiling I am going to attach to the ceiling drywall, is there any special/better/secure way to attach to the ceiling drywall other than just some wide thread screws? Would large toggles be reasonable? Are there any special brackets available that would broaden the pressure points and help the top wall brace secure better to the ceiling drywall? I will be tiling the shower side of the wall with heavy 18"x18" tiles and don't want it to go south after the first year or whenever.. Thanks, Joe
Walls – Attach new interior wall to ceiling drywall
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Related Solutions
Determining if this segment is load bearing should be evident to a competent contractor. There are a few things to look for. You have to look above and below the wall in question. In the floor or attic above, you have to determine if there is structure bearing down directly or via headers to this wall segment. Next, you need to look below in the basement level to see if a beam, post or other structure is directly below the wall segment carrying the load to the foundation. While not always true, this wall segment may be load bearing if it is parallel to the longest dimension of the house, usually perpendicular to a gable end and located half way between the two longest exterior walls. There are a few methods of framing that could make this a load bearing wall, even if you have full trusses for roof support, ie; ceiling joists that rest on a center beam directly over the wall in question. As I said, most competent carpenters could look at this and determine it's load bearing status. Obviously, a set of plans would be helpful as well. Even if it is load bearing, a good carpenter will be able to design a header to span the new opening, support the load and allow you to remove the section of wall you want gone.
Stock fitting - Male Pipe Thread to sweat (ie, soldered copper) Solder to a section of pipe, screw in, enjoy.
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Best Answer
The correct way to do it is to remove some of the drywall from the ceiling, and install cross braces between the joists. You'll then attach the top of the wall to the cross braces. Anything less and you'll have movement in the wall, and you don't want the wall moving (especially if it's tiled).
Sounds like you've got a nice project going. Don't half-ass it, or you'll regret it later when you're redoing it.