From your description of putting a screw into the walls, it certainly sounds as if you have lath-and-plaster. Another sign is the color of the dust: with drywall, it will be very white and uniform, whereas with lath-and-plaster, it's greyish and has darker flecks.
A lot of stud finders work by detecting the change in the dielectric constant of the wall as you move horizontally across the wall. Stud finders have a hard time with lath-and-plaster because the plaster is solid and can often be 1/2" thick, then underneath the plaster you there are only small gaps between the wood lath, so you never really get the sharp change in capacitance that they look for. On the other hand, drywall is spongy so there's less material between the stud finder and the stud that it's supposed to be sensing.
I had a deep-scan stud finder, and it wasn't that reliable, but I developed a technique that I had reasonable success with: do several scans at different heights and different starting points on the wall, noting where it said there was a stud. I also found that scanning slowly was better than faster. Eventually, I would get to an "average" location that was a pretty good guess.
I later learned (at least in my house) is that there's a stud on each interior wall right where it runs into an exterior wall. I could then mark 16", 32", etc. back from that stud and be OK.
If wallpaper was painted over you could tell pretty easily by pulling on some of the peeling paint and breaking the paint chips. Wear a respirator mask while doing this, however, as often times flaking paint is a potential indicator of lead based paint. If the chips contain paper, then you're right, it's wallpaper with paint over it. If it's just paint, then be more careful - get the chips tested for lead.
Given the wide spread flaking, it is likely that the wall simply wasn't properly primed. An improperly treated wall when painted over will eventually lose adhesion with the paint and it'll flake away like you're seeing. If they applied paint directly to wall paper w/o priming, I think the same is true.
That 2nd picture DOES remind me of wallpaper... I've scrubbed far too much backing off the walls and that looks similar.
The grey subsurface is, I think, a kind of stucco mix that was often used to even up walls where lathe and plaster was replaced with the older style 2x4 drywall panels. It's nasty, gritty, dusty, unpleasant stuff, tougher than joint compound/plaster to work with because of it's tendency to crack and break rather catastrophically. When I run into that stuff in my rentals my approach is, "IF I have to touch it at all, it's ALL coming down." Plus with wallpaper I swear gutting is easier than stripping.
Now around the vent pipe, that looks like moisture damage. The bubbling around the pipe suggest water leakage. Is that a "finished" ceiling - ie - thats the roof on the other side of that wall w/ the pipe? If so, make sure it's properly sealed and replace at least that area of ceiling.
Picture #5 seems to confirm this - someone touched it, and patched it badly.
Best Answer
We call them "nail pops".
First, are you sure they are screws? Nails are common here. When the wood dries out, it shrinks and "squeezes" the tapered nail and it will back-out slightly causing the "nail pop". The only fix is to drive them in and re-tape, texture, and paint.
Second, we don't glue wallboard to the studs. So, often the wallboard stands "proud" of the wall (stands slightly away from the wall). This can be caused by the studs not being set in a straight line, the stud is slightly warped, etc. So, after the job is complete, someone will bump the wall causing the wallboard to bow (flex) in, but the nail does not move, thus the "nail pop". Again, the only fix is drive them in, tape, texture and paint.
When we use screws, we don't have these problems. The screws seem to suck the wallboard up tight to the framing and not "back-out".