Having done some plaster, but only on interior walls (not drywall, real plaster), and some finish concrete and masonry work, I have to say that the most useful thing you can do is build yourself some sample surfaces and try to learn there. Actually hardened materials are a major pain to remove, and will look awful if you do a poor job.
Remember that a great deal of the strength in the surface comes from the chemical reactions (including oxidation) in the materials. Therefore, you really need to have the moisture levels right. A big challenge when plastering is making sure that the underlying layer doesn't suck the water out of your mix, which will cause the layer you're putting on to fail (because it's too dry when setting up). Mist the surface carefully: too wet is just as bad as too dry. (Ask me how I know. Go ahead, ask ;-))
The remark from DMoore is also right: a smooth appearance over the area is quite important. Building some guides that allow you to check for high and low spots when you're still wet will make your life easier. I haven't done anything nearly as large as a pool, but this made my life much easier in large sections of wall that needed to be repaired in a historic building.
I watched the old-timey pros do some plaster over a brick wall in my last house, and it appears to me that the trick for seams is to have the assistant mixing batches to time thing just so. That way, the edge of the work you're just finishing is still fresh when the new mix shows up, and you never really have a definite seam (this is the "hot joins" bit you mention). Of course, to make this work you basically have to do the whole job in one go. Hard to do, if it's big enough. If you're doing this for the first time, I think planning to do this with only two of you will result in not being able to do that.
Do not neglect keeping the work clean as you go. You can make a pretty good job look like total crap by having stray bits of mess hanging around, and hardened Portland cement is very hard to clean up. (You can do it with polishing and so on, but it's way better to get as clean as close as possible in the first place.)
If you can find some smallish and nice finish-concrete or finish-plaster problem to try doing first, your hand and eye with the trowels will be way better when you get to this much bigger job. If you can learn to love wavy bits in your finished work, then learning as you go might be ok. But if you can try to learn in some smaller jobs first, I bet your life will be better. I wish I could go back in time and re-do the first ceiling re-plaster I did, because I could see how I got better as I went across the ceiling (I was out of time because my wife wanted me to cook something rather than butter the ceiling some more!).
Good luck.
Best Answer
Your iron fence, like this:
... Is the more traditional choice. A fence like this is going to be very durable, generally only requiring a coat of oil paint every few years and replacing minor touches like the caps on the posts. These are also generally more aesthetically pleasing as they are typically installed as part of the overall decor of the pool. However, iron fences are generally more expensive, especially as a retrofit; the normal installation method is to anchor the posts in concrete, which would require drilling through your existing concrete pad to set them. It's also possible and accepted to "surface-mount" this type of fence onto an existing pool deck using L-brackets welded to the posts and lag screws for wood, or concrete anchors for a pad. This isn't as strong, as the screws can pull out over time, but it's usually more than enough. Lastly, an iron fence hurts more to run into; they don't have much give (not any if properly installed, really).
A vinyl mesh fence, like this:
is a newer option. These generally cost less, are easier to install, and the aesthetic can be pleasing (instead of the thick iron bars, you have a filmy mesh, reminiscent of a privacy screen). Along those same lines, the mesh provides slightly less visibility than the iron, especially in low light. This can be a two-edged sword; the neighbors can't see you skinny-dip, but you may not see a child falling in the pool in the evening or at night. Before you go this route, ask the supplier for a demo panel you can set up between your pool and an indoor vantage point to check the visibility as the day progresses and make sure it's to your liking. The mesh has some give, so a young child running into it won't be injured as badly (it may still throw him back onto the ground).
On the downside, the mesh screens are more easily cut or torn, and if this happens the entire panel can rip in half allowing pets and kids into the pool area. Do not use these if you have big dogs that like to scratch on the back door; they'll do the same on these and break through pretty quickly. The mesh is replaceable, but it's a hassle and a safety concern. These fences generally come prefabricated for ease of installation, but that generally means there's one way to install them; anchored with L-brackets to your deck. An adult running full-tilt into a panel could break the fence down. And while they can look good, they can also look cheap (usually due to poor installation, or simply because a particular mesh fence product IS cheap).