I agree with Jimmy Fix-it (in a comment on the question): residential sprinklers will protect best, if you have a good (dependable) water source. They are relatively inexpensive, because the sprinkler lines can be run from the nearest water line in the house provided the domestic system can supply the flows needed (13gpm to all design sprinklers and 18gpm to any single sprinkler operating). You don't need a separate waterline, riser, fire department connections, etc. However, be aware that when your insurance salesman says you'll save money in house insurance, you should ask him how much to add "water damage" if they accidentally go off.
But, to answer your question, the Code divides construction into 5 categories:
Type I and Type II: These types are "non combustible ", which primarily refers to concrete and steel construction. The main difference between I and II is whether the exterior and interior bearing walls need to be protected longer… it's 3 hours for Type I and 1 hour for Type II.
Type III is masonry construction using combustible inner structural members, or "ordinary construction".
Type IV is "Heavy Timber" construction. This is wood (fire treated and untreated) that is primarily thick (8" diameter!) timbers for structural members with masonry for load-bearing walls. Partitions (non-load bearing) walls can still be 2x framing.
Type V is anything or everything else… including wood framing, straw-bales, etc.
However, all these materials are divided into sub-categories of with and without fire sprinklers. There are many many requirements with each category… like everything, it's in the details. (I.e.: non-bearing wall construction, enclosed shafts, attic construction, etc.)
In addition to what you called "fire susceptibility" construction, the code identifies "flammability " of materials. All materials fall into 3 classes: Class A: 0-25 flame rating, Class B: 26-75 flame rating and Class C: 76-200 flame rating. Most often this is what kills occupants of burned buildings. Usually, victims are dead long before the building burns up and falls down on them. Fire sprinklers will protect against this too.
I'd also invest in the best fire alarm system (with battery backup)… and some come with additional horns and carbon monoxide detectors too.
The basic answer is that since this window is already set in the wall the interior framing that you are adding does not provide structural support of the wall over, under and along the sides of the window.
On the other hand you may want to consider how the interior trim and furnishings will be applied. If you intend to apply a wide casing around the window then do consider that having doubled framing around the window can be very nice for nailing into. This can also be very nice above and to the top sides if you intend to install wall mounted drapery rods or bars.
Best Answer
Could you support it up the same way you support a porch?
You'd want to get past that sidewalk, the base has to be absolutely secure where it sets.