The two GFCI in the kitchen at the end of a run had no power. Took them out and noticed no voltage coming into the line run GFCI (so no power to end GFCI either). The 15 amp circuit breaker for this run indicates that multiple non-GFCI outlets precede the two GFCIs at the end of the run. All of the non-GFCI outlets are working… I am assuming the line feed from the last non-GFCI outlet prior to the GFCI has been lost (shorted)… if this is right how best to find the short?
Wiring – No power to the GFCI at end of run
wiring
Related Solutions
Let's see if we can answer this in pictures. For one feed from the breaker panel, to have each of the outlets on their own GFCI, you want this:
For one feed from the breaker panel to have one GFCI protecting downstream outlets, you want this:
However, you say that you have a red and a black wire in the box, and this complicates things. You might have a MWBC (multi-wire branch circuit) feeding the outlets, with the red hot on one outlet and the black hot on the other:
Or, you could have something else in this outlet, in which case (espcially if you don't feel confident) you really need to contact an electrician to get it sorted out.
Your wiring should look something like this.
- You'll use a twist-on wire connector (or other approved means) to connect the incoming ungrounded (hot) conductor, to three lengths of black wire.
- Connect the first length of wire from the bundle, to a terminal on the single pole switch.
- Connect another length of wire from the bundle, to the common terminal on the double switch (the common terminal should be black, or some other odd color other than green).
- Connect the final length of wire from the bundle, to the brass colored LINE terminal on the GFCI.
- Connect the ungrounded (hot) conductor leading to the light, to the other terminal on the single pole switch.
- Connect the ungrounded (hot) conductors leading to the light/fan, to the terminals on the double switch.
- Connect the ungrounded (hot) conductor leading to the GFCI protected devices, to the brass colored LOAD terminal of the GFCI.
- Use a twist-on wire connector (or other approved means) to combine the incoming grounded (neutral), the grounded (neutral) from the light, the grounded (neutral) from the light/fan, and a length of white wire.
- Connect the length of wire from the neutral bundle, to the silver colored LINE terminal on the GFCI.
- Connect the grounded (neutral) conductor from the GFCI protected devices, to the silver LOAD terminal on the GFCI.
- Connect all grounding conductors in an approved manner.
NOTE: Notice that the grounded (neutral) conductor leading to the GFCI protected devices, is NOT connected to the other grounded (neutral) conductors in the box.
NOTE: Since I don't know the exact devices you're using, the terminal layout of the diagram might not be correct.
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Best Answer
If you have NO Voltage on Line In at the GFCI - and I am talking the PHYSICAL WIRE and not the receptacle plug - then given you have power at the preceding receptacle and not at the GFCI - you have an OPEN circuit.
That means the wire is not feeding power due to a open connection or broken connection on the preceding receptacle or on the 1st GFCI.
I think there are also some issues with placing a secondary GFCI in line with an existing GFCI, either one or both GFCI's might not work properly.
If it is at the receptacle end where you are measuring no voltage - the GFCI has tripped. Given you have two at the end of the run - is the other one tripped ?