Wood – How to build a mantel on rough stone fireplace

fireplacemasonrystonewood

I have a very rough stone fireplace for which I'd like to hang a new mantel. Eventually I want to hang a flat screen and the new mantel will protect it from heat and such.

I have noodled this project and noodled it and have not been able to land on a decent solution. I'm open to ideas. I've considered chiseling high places and building up a mortared flat plane. I've even thought about using an angle grinder… and quickly dismissed the idea. All of these ideas have their pros and cons.

As for mounting: hidden channel bracket mounting, iron under brackets (which I really like), even hidden rods that go into the mantel. As my mantel piece is probably about 50-70 pounds, how I mount it greatly depends on how sure I am of the surface I'm mounting to.

In the end, the issue is: what is the best way to mount it to this surface!?

I'm a blank slate for ideas.
Thank you!

The mantel piece is about 5' long and about 8" high.

Here's a view from the attic crawl space. On the left is the chimney. On the right is the masonry, to which the rock is attached.

Best Answer

The first step is to put the hidden fasteners in. Like you said, I would use a rod system and epoxy it into the stone so that they won't come out.

As far as getting it to sit on a flat plane, I wouldn't chisel the block out. I would build up the area where the mantel will sit with a mortar that is colored to match the stone face. You can pick up mortar tints, like the Quickrete Mortar Tints. Just use a thicker mortar and mask off the areas that you don't want to get covered. Build up in layers if you are laying it thick. Just cover the area that you want the mantle to sit.

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Wood – How to repair screws in furniture with stripped holes

You took the wind out of my sails with that last paragraph. I was going to suggest using a nut/bolt.

As far as it causing problems when the tabletop is lowered, you can recess the bolt head. Yeah, you could make the cavity in which the bolt will stay on the underside of the tabletop, but maybe you'll drill too far or crack/scratch the tabletop if you chisel it out. It could end badly... which is why you should instead house the bolt head on the top-side of the cross member.

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Brown = table top
Black = underlying cross member

The one on the left is what you were talking about. The one on the right is what you want to do.

Also, use a washer under the bolt head, etc.

How to build a mantel around the fireplace

The studs are likely following a standard layout such as 16 inches on center (16 oc) this is so that plywood/sheetrock will typically fall on a stud without the need to cut the 8 or 12 foot piece. For your application, I would recommend (based on similar jobs in the past):

Inserting 2 x 4 blocks horizontally in between the vertical studs at the edge of the sheetrock and the edge of the insert It looks as if three would be more than enough. Secure with framing nails or screws (screws would be practical in this application). This will provide vertical anchor points for the vertical section of your wood surround.
Mark on the sheetrock the location of the studs for future location purposes
At this point you can secure the surround to the framing, or you can attach the backerboard for the tile to the framing and then attach the surround to the backer board. In this case, attaching the surround directly to the framing may give a cleaner final look. Typically surrounds are made to attach to a ledger board (basically a piece of wood secured to the framing), and the surround then rests on the ledger and is secured with trim nails, etc.
Attach your backer board for the tile. (dura rock etc.) Be sure to use screws about every 6 inces in the studs. You want the backer to be as secure as possible in order to prevent future cracking.

Here is a link that shows a similar project, take a look at the ledger. in most cases, guys will use a simple 2 x 4 for the ledger (Note, I have no affiliation with the link).

I would recommend taping the seams of the backer board with fiber tape, and and filling the tape with thinset when attaching the tile.

I hope this helps!

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