I have to say that I am no fan of cordless framer nailers. I have had two different ones, a Porter Cable and a Pasload. Both were gas fired. The PC was a disaster. Had lots of problems with the propane cells seating properly and nails jamming. Got the Pasload, worked OK, but slow and the smell was so bad that I only used it outdoors. The gas cells are expensive also. After two days on a job, I went back to my trusty Bostich 88 and ran the compressor off a gen set. The other thing I hated was that it could not shoot 10d wire collated nails that I use in my other air framers. Those plastic bits flying at your face sting and you have to reload much more often. Absolutely hate plastic collated nails!
To be honest, I have not tried one of the new battery operated models yet. For framing, I like the largest, thickest nail.(3 1/4") and most cordless ones don't shoot the same larger nails I use in my Bostich.
Since your projects are at home and you already have a 135# compressor, I really think you will get a lot more nailer for the $$$ if you stick with a Bostich 88 mag or similar. You will be able to shoot 4d to 10d nails. The unit itself is much lighter, cheaper and very dependable.
For what you pay for a good cordless, you could own a good framer, 16ga finish and 18ga brad gun, thus having the right tool for every nailing job.
I have to say however, a good cordless finish gun is wicked handy and the battery models have plenty of power, but this humble carpenter is not sold on cordless framers.
A professional would probably remove some drywall, install continuous conduit from end to end, and restore the drywall. It is a bit more disruptive, but not really harder than doing it with flexible bits and trickery.
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That's all fairly typical, and I don't see anything concerning. The electrician could've kept things a bit cleaner by either going easier with the auger bit or notching the stud cleanly instead. They're in a hurry, like everyone else, though.
The holes in the wall plates only remove a minor portion of the width of the plate (which appears to be 2x6). It does carry one floor joist, but that could as well be carried by a 2x4 wall, so it's fine. I would pilot and install a screw to secure that split plate shard just to prevent a bulge in the drywall. Be sure to not pinch the cables. They must remain free to move.
If a repair was deemed necessary for some reason not evident here, a short double-2x6 header behind the wires with trimmer studs to the bottom plate would do.
The large hole in the flatwise stud doesn't really matter because that stud isn't critical to begin with.
I would consider replacing the nails in the protective steel plate with flathead screws, countersunk to be flush. That'll help with what might otherwise be a visible bulge in your drywall. Even nails with smaller heads would help. You could use trim nails and drive them flush. They just need to keep the plate from sliding around before the drywall goes up.