UPDATE: @doozit commented below that this document was just a proposal, which wasn't accepted. (It isn't described as such on the ESA webpage)
A quick google search found what looks like the answer in the Ontario amendments to the Canadian electrical code on the Electrical Safety Authority's page
This reference might be enough for you and your electricians to break the tie:
31.Delete CE Code Rule 26-744(4) and replace with the following:
(4) A receptacle of CSA Configuration 14-50R, as shown in Diagram 1, shall be
installed at a suitable location in every single dwelling and in every dwelling unit of an apartment or similar multi-dwelling building for supplying electric energy to an electric range.
32.Add Rules 26-744(10), (11), (12) and (13) as follows:
...
(13) Notwithstanding Subrule (4), the range receptacle need not be installed in
(a) dwelling units where a built-in gas-fired or electric cook top or a built-in gas-fired or electric oven is installed;
(b) other than single dwellings where provision has been made for a gas range; or
(c) dwelling units where power from a supply authority is not available and the capacity of local generation is less than 6 kW.
So it looks like you don't need the receptacle as long as a cooktop or oven is installed.
Your panel needs to be reviewed, carefully.
When you do, you'll have no trouble finding 2 spaces.
It's a quality CH panel, albeit with only 20 spaces. I'm not counting the top 2 spaces in each row, which collectively are the main breaker (100A). Good news is, with this panel arrangement, if you shut off the main breaker, everything is cold except those conspicuous large screws. Which makes it more DIY-friendly than most.
I see seven 240V breakers tying up 14 of 20 spaces. That means all 120V loads in the entire house are served by six 120V breakers, which is pretty compact. I don't believe a house can have seven 240V loads. The usual big four are dryer, A/C, water heater and oven. So I suspect many of these breakers are surplus, particularly since they're off.
The only conceivable reason for this many 240V breakers is having all-electric heat, e.g. baseboard, and if that's the case, forget about an electric range/oven - you just don't have enough service.
Two of those 240V loads are 120/240 split phase. The right side middle rows are a 30A breaker, and looks to have the heavier 10 AWG wire, so it looks to be a dryer. The left side 4th and 5th from the bottom is weird because the white wire is being used as a hot, and the red wire is taped white and used as a neutral (which is illegal to do). That's not right. It might be a multi-wire branch circuit or MWBC, serving two 120V circuits, but I doubt it.
I see a red wire that's taped off, that means there's another black-red-white cable with black and white only being used. That seems weirdly sloppy (why use white for a 240V circuit when you have red) which only worries me more about the quality of work in general.
Even worse, look at the bottom right breaker. It's a 60A breaker but that's NOT a 4 AWG wire. It's either 12 AWG or maybe 10 AWG. That needs a 20A or 30A breaker, respectively. I know exactly what those breakers cost, so no excuse! SHUT IT OFF NOW. NEVER turn it back on. Replace with a 20 or 30A breaker respectively, most hardware stores stock CH220 or CH230. And if it trips, it's supposed to.
Other than that, Mrs. Lincoln...
Go through each circuit in the panel, for two reasons. First, to find any more defects -- after all, I could find two whoppers from a photo. Second, to understand what you do have, so you can either trim or consolidate and free up 2 breaker spaces.
Don't bother hunting down double-stuff (duplex/tandem) CH breakers. Yes, they exist, but you really, really need to re-evaluate this panel, given the large number of defects I've seen from one measly photo. And I think as you do so, you'll free up some space.
Oven/range is straightforward
You simply need a 50A breaker and 6 AWG copper (or 4 AWG aluminum). You could go 40A and 8 AWG, but the difference is only a few bucks, and you'll have a wider selection of ovens/ranges if you go 50A. CH 50A breakers are readily available, not quite as widely stocked as the 20/30s but any big-box should have them. You cannot reuse the 60A breaker.
However, cooking on electric kinda sucks, if you're coming from gas. It's a very annoying learning curve, and a lot of compromises and workarounds. Not recommended.
If you must upgrade the panel
CH is a fine system. One option is get a larger CH panel. However, if you replace the panel, you will need to upgrade most of all of your 6-8 120V loads to AFCI or GFCI or both/combo, and that could get costly. The disadvantage to CH or any 3/4" wide breaker is being smaller, there's less space to cram advanced tech, so they're more expensive or unavailable.
Don't go cheap. This panel is much better than the Homelite and other shlock the local big-box is shoveling. (You can't go by brand anymore, as good brands like Square D and Eaton have bought up cheapie sub-brands.) You have to ask for the good stuff. Get a top-shelf panel from a proper electrical supply. And go really big - bare minimum 42-space, 60-space is not too many. If the main breaker for such a panel is too large, bypass it - put a 100A breaker in the normal spaces and backfeed it (much like is occurring in this panel).
Best Answer
Different electrical systems, same range
On the far right, do you see where it says "208Y/120V" in the first row and "120/240V" in the second row? Most electric cooking appliances are designed to run off of two different voltage systems, yours included, and that is why they have two ratings.
Figuring out what you have
The easiest way to figure out which of the two systems you have is to measure at the range receptacle with a voltmeter hot-to-hot. The 120/240V line is the normal split-phase North American residential and light commercial electrical service -- there is 240V (well, 220-250V) between the hots, and 120V hot to neutral. This system is nice for residential work as it supplies both utilization voltages cheaply and allows heating appliances to work at full power -- 9.3kW for your stove.
However, if you measure 208V (or somewhere between say 190-220V) between the hot lines, you have at least two and perhaps all three phases of a three phase wye electrical service, which uses the "208Y/120" line on the range and is found in large buildings, such as high-rises, large institutional buildings, and industrial facilities, although some very large older homes in the South and Southwest use a three phase service due to the size of their air conditioners. Three phase service is helpful for larger buildings as it's a more efficient way of moving power around than single phase or split phase. However, the reduced voltage available at the wall outlet means that heating appliances run at reduced power -- a mere 6.9kW in the case of your stove.
Once you know
Once you know which line to use, simply divide the nameplate power consumption from that line by the line-to-line (hot-to-hot) voltage to get the current draw.