I have two 20amp circuits in the kitchen. One is controlling receptacles to the left of the sink AND the dishwasher. The other is controlling receptacles to the right of the sink AND the fridge. The disposer is on it's own 20amp circuit. Since counter receptacles are used far more frequently than the disposer is and more likely to trip the GFCI killing power to the fridge, would the lesser of two evils be to place the fridge on the same circuit as the disposer and get it off the circuit that controls two receptacles to the right of the sink?
Electrical – I need a wiring solution for an unusual situation
electrical
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The NEC (NFPA 70 2011 edition) requires GFCI receptacles in kitchens of dwelling units where the receptacles are installed to serve the countertop surfaces. It does not mention a distance requirement in kitchens.
The distance requirement of 1.8 meters (6 feet) is for sinks located in areas other than kitchens.
Section 210.8 A of NFPA 70 2011 Edition deals with GFCI protection in dwelling units (see below).
210.8 Ground-Fault Circuit-Interrupter Protection for Personnel.
Ground-fault circuit-interruption for personnel shall be provided as required in 210.8(A) through (C). The ground-fault circuit-interrupter shall be installed in a readily accessible location. Informational Note: See 215.9 for ground-fault circuit-interrupter protection for personnel on feeders.
(A) Dwelling Units. All 125-volt, single-phase, 15- and 20-ampere receptacles installed in the locations specified in 210.8(A)(1) through (8) shall have ground-fault circuit-interrupter protection for personnel
(1) Bathrooms
(2) Garages, and also accessory buildings that have a floor located at or below grade level not intended as habitable rooms and limited to storage areas, work areas, and areas of similar use.
(3) Outdoors
Exception to (3): Receptacles that are not readily accessible and are supplied by a branch circuit dedicated to electric snow-melting, deicing, or pipeline and vessel heating equipment shall be permitted to be installed in accordance with 426.28 or 427.22, as applicable.(4) Crawl spaces — at or below grade level
(5) Unfinished basements — for purposes of this section, unfinished basements are defined as portions or areas of the basement not intended as habitable rooms and limited to storage areas, work areas, and the like
Exception to (5): A receptacle supplying only a permanently installed fire alarm or burglar alarm system shall not be required to have ground-fault circuit-interrupter protection.Informational Note: See 760.41(B) and 760.121(B) for power supply requirements for fire alarm systems.
Receptacles installed under the exception to 210.8(A)(5) shall not be considered as meeting the requirements of 210.52(G).
(6) Kitchens— where the receptacles are installed to serve the countertop surfaces
(7) Sinks — located in areas other than kitchens where receptacles are installed within 1.8 m (6 ft) of the outside edge of the sink
(8) Boathouses
Simply replacing the first receptacle in the group with a GFCI receptacle, will provide protection to the entire group (if wired properly).
GFCI Receptacle
Locate the feeders
WARNING:
This procedure should only be carried out by persons with the proper tools and knowledge. And should be carried out with extreme caution.
When you open up the box containing the first receptacle in the group, you're going to notice two cables enter the box. One cable brings power from the breaker/fuse box (feeder), and the other carries power to the remainder of the circuit. You'll have to figure out which cable is which, so you know how to connect the GFCI receptacle.
- Start by turning off the power at the breaker/fuse box.
- Disconnect the receptacle, and position all the wires so that they will not contact each other or anything else conductive.
- Turn the power back on.
- Using a multi-, voltage or non-contact meter determine which set of wires is which. The feed from the breaker/fuse box will have power, while the line going to the rest of the circuit will not.
- Mark the wires in some way, and turn the power back off.
WARNING:
If you got a voltage reading on more than one set of wires, STOP, do not follow the rest of these instructions. contact a local Electrician.
Connect the GFCI
On the GFCI receptacle you'll notice that one set of terminals is labeled "LINE", and the other is labeled "LOAD".
- Connect the wires from the cable you marked as being from the breaker/fuse box, to the terminals labeled "LINE" (Black to brass, white to silver, green/bare to green/ground and the box if it's metal).
- Connect the wires from the other cable to the terminals labeled "LOAD".
- Install the receptacle into the box.
- Turn the power on.
- Press the Reset button on the GFCI receptacle.
WARNING:
If the receptacle will not reset, the wiring is connected incorrectly, or contains a fault. Contact an Electrician to complete the job.
GFCI Breaker
Alternatively, you can install a GFCI breaker to protect the entire circuit.
WARNING:
This procedure should only be carried out by persons with the proper tools and knowledge. And should be carried out with extreme caution.
- Turn off the breaker.
- Remove the black wire from the terminal on the breaker.
- Locate the white "neutral" wire associated with the circuit (should originate from the same cable).
- Remove the white "neutral" wire from the neutral bus bar.
- Remove the breaker (Caution should be used not to touch the hot bus bar while the breaker is removed).
- Install the GFCI breaker.
- Connect the white wire from the GFCI breaker to the neutral bus bar.
- Connect the white "neutral" wire from the circuit to the GFCI breaker.
- Connect the black "hot" wire from the circuit to the GFCI breaker.
- Turn the breaker on.
WARNING:
If the breaker will not reset, the wiring is connected incorrectly, or contains a fault. Contact an Electrician to complete the job.
Test the GFCI
Once the GFCI device is installed, it should be tested at least once a month to insure it's functioning properly.
- Press the Test button.
- Press the Reset button.
If the GFCI will not reset, the GFCI is bad, the wiring is incorrect, or there is a fault. Correct any faults, and/or install a new GFCI device.
Related Topic
- Electrical – the minimum distance wiring must be behind a tile backsplash
- Electrical – Wiring requirement for small kitchen
- Electrical – Do I need two separate duplex receptacles for dishwasher (GFCI) and garbage disposal
- Code-Compliance – Can a 20A Kitchen Circuit Serve a Dishwasher? (California Code)
- Electrical – Can a dishwasher and disposer be on the same 20 ampere circuit
- Electrical – Can you have both 15 and 20 Amp receptacles off the same 20 Amp GFCI
- Electrical – Wiring disposal/dishwasher/outlets in island
- Electrical – Can two kitchen disposals share a circuit
Best Answer
I would say yes, although you are swapping one code violation for another. The fridge CAN be on with the small appliance counter circuit, but the DW cannot (which is how you have it now).
If the fridge is kept off the SABC (small appliance branch circuit) then it must be on it's own circuit. At the same time, I do agree that having the fridge on with the disposal is the lesser of two evils as opposed to having it on with the counter circuit and GFI protected.
I still do NOT like that the DW is on with the SABC. The DW is likely more of a draw than the fridge, but you have the option of not using the DW at times when small appliances are being used. The fridge does not allow you this flexibility.
I am not an advocate of code violations, but swapping a minor code violation for an even lesser one IMO is not a bad thing to do.
Best case scenario: